BANDHANI/BANDHEJ –UNIQUE TIE-DYE TECHNIQUE

June 22, 2020

BANDHANI/BANDHEJ –UNIQUE TIE-DYE TECHNIQUE

Bhandhani is a type of tie-dye textile also known as Bandhej mainly found in the states of Gujrat, Rajasthan, Sindh, Punjab region and Tamil Nadu. In Tamil Nadu it is known by Sungudi.

This word has been derived from the Sanskrit work “Bandh” meaing to say “to-tie”.

It is one of the unique technique decorated by plucking the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny tiny bindings that forms a figurative design.

History:

This technique is dates back to as early as 4000 B.C. found in Indus Valley Civilization. One of the early example of this technique is found in 6^th Century painting which depicts the life of Buddha found on the wall of Cave I of Ajanta.

As per the History, the first Bandhani saree was worn by the Bana Bhatt’s Harshacharitra in a royal marriage.

Interesting Fact: It was believed that wearing a Bandhani Saree can bring a good future to a bride.

Technique:

The Technique of Bandhani involves the dyeing of the fabric tied tightly with a thread at several points, thereby making variety of unique patterns like Chandrakala, Bavan Baug, Shikari etcetera; depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. The main colour used in Bandhana are yellow, red, blue, green and black. It is a highly skilled process. A meter length of cloth can have thousands of tiny knots known as 'Bheendi' in the local language ('Gujarati'). These knots form a design once opened after dyeing in bright colours. Traditionally, the final products can be classified into 'khombhi', 'Ghar Chola', 'Chandrakhani', 'Shikari', 'Chowkidaar', 'Ambadaal' and other categories.

Bandhani needs a resilient base, as the fabric is subjected to intricate tying and multiple rounds of dyeing. This fabric must also be able to withstand the stretching, while opening/ unraveling knots. The base fabric must also be absorbent, so as to satisfactorily absorb colours, during the hand-dyeing process.

Traditionally, fine mill-made cottons or muslins were used to create Bandhani. The contemporary artisans, given the changing preferences, also work on fine georgettes, art silks, silk-cotton blends, viscose and cotton variants. Pure Venkatigiri cotton, sourced from Andhra Pradesh, is used to create traditional Gharcholas. Georgettes with pure Banarasi brocade borders are used to make vibrant and colourful, high-end Jhankaar Bandhanis.

Bandhej Saree:

Bandhej saree which is also known as "Bandhani saree" is specially found in Gujarat and Rajasthan. The name bandhani means tying up, as it is taken by Hindi pronoun ‘bandhan’. As per the region of manufacturing the patterns of Bandhej Saree may vary. The fine variety of this type of saree is created in Pethapur, Mandvi, Bhuj, Anjar, Jamnagar, Jetpur, Porbandar, Rajkot, Udaipur, Jaipur, Ajmer, Bikaner etc.

These types of sarees are getting more popular as they can be worn on any occasion.

Bandhani is truly an art and it’s a common sight to see not only women wearing outfits of Bandhej but also the men can be found wearing turbans with Bandhej motifs. The main market is in Gujarat but it is being sold all over India as the demand has increased over the past few decades. The sales shoot up during the wedding and festive seasons. Mostly, it is used as odhnis by the ladies on festivals.

Fact: The strength of Bandhani is lost if ironed with a high heat setting, therefore, it is advisable to get your Bandhej apparel dry-cleaned and if needed be, ironed with a low heat setting.