cotton saarees

Cotton – Its origin and Type of Cotton Saarees

Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of the cotton plants of the genus Gossypium in the mallow family Malvaceae. The fiber is almost pure cellulose. Under natural conditions, the cotton bolls will increase the dispersal of the seeds.

The origin of cotton production and its use comes from ancient times which is about 7000 years old.

 Scientists searching caves in Mexico found bits of cotton bolls and pieces of cotton cloth that proved to be at least 7,000 years old. They also found that the cotton itself was much like that grown in America today.

 In the Indus River Valley in Pakistan, cotton was being grown, spun and woven into cloth 3,000 years BC. At about the same time, natives of Egypt’s Nile valley were making and wearing cotton clothing.

Arab merchants brought cotton cloth to Europe about 800 A.D. When Columbus discovered America in 1492, he found cotton growing in the Bahama Islands. By 1500, cotton was known generally throughout the world.

 Cotton seed are believed to have been planted in Florida in 1556 and in Virginia in 1607. By 1616, colonists were growing cotton along the James River in Virginia.

 Cotton was first spun by machinery in England in 1730. The industrial revolution in England and the invention of the cotton gin in the U.S. paved the way for the important place cotton holds in the world today.

 Current estimates for world production are about 25 million tonnes or 110 million bales annually, accounting for 2.5% of the world's arable land. India is the world's largest producer of cotton. The United States has been the largest exporter for many years.

 Early Modern Period

 Mughal India

 

Under the Mughal Empire, which ruled in the Indian subcontinent from the early 16th century to the early 18th century, Indian cotton production increased, in terms of both raw cotton and cotton textiles. 

The largest manufacturing industry in the Mughal Empire was cotton textile manufacturing, which included the production of piece goods, calicos, and muslins, available unbleached and in a variety of colours. The cotton textile industry was responsible for a large part of the empire's international trade. India had a 25% share of the global textile trade in the early 18th century. Indian cotton textiles were the most important manufactured goods in world trade in the 18th century, consumed across the world from the Americas to Japan. The most important center of cotton production was the Bengal Sunbath province, particularly around its capital city of Dhaka.

 It was reported that, with an Indian cotton gin, which is half machine and half tool, one man and one woman could clean 28 pounds of cotton per day. With a modified Forbes version, one man and a boy could produce 250 pounds per day. If oxen were used to power 16 of these machines, and a few people's labour was used to feed them, they could produce as much work as 750 people did formerly

 Industrial Revolution

 The Industrial Revolution brought about the invention of the spinning machine (1738) and the cotton gin (1793), providing a great boost to cotton manufacture, first of all in England. Manchester acquired the nickname "cottonopolis" due to the cotton industry's omnipresence within the city.

 Till the middle of the 19th century, India was the main provider of cotton fiber for Europe’s cotton industries. By then, cotton had become the backbone of the southern North American economy, which was essentially based on slavery work. Due to the higher quality of American cotton (longer and stronger fibers) and its cheaper price, European textile manufacturers started purchasing cotton from American plantations.

 Cotton Saaree

 History of sari-like drapery is traced back to the Indus Valley Civilisation, which flourished during 2800–1800 BCE around the northwestern part of the Indian subcontinent.Cotton was first cultivated and woven in Indian subcontinent around 5th millennium BCE.

  Cotton is one of the most comfortable and breathable fabric for summers. Almost every state in India has its own traditional signature cotton saree. Bearing the harsh summer temperature in India, women often prefer to wear cotton. Some of these cotton sarees like the Bengali Tant sarees are famous for their fabric quality. Khadi being one of the oldest and most used fabric.

Different types of Cotton Saarees most popular:

 

1.     1. Sambalpuri Saaree

 

Sambalpuri sarees are the traditional hand-woven saree originally produced in the western part of Odisha, India. Its name comes from the western city sambalpur, famous for this handloom product. Known for its different weaving techniques, sambalpuri sarees infuses traditional motifs like flowers, wheels and shells in its sarees. The threads are first tie-dyed and later woven into fabric form.

2. Tant Saaree

 

Tant Saare is the synonym of Bengal cotton saaree the most popular sarees worn by the women of West Bengal and Bangladesh. Their light, airy texture makes them especially suited for the warm and humid summers of this region. Tant sarees are characterized by a thick border, a decorative pallu and are woven with a variety of floral, paisley and other artistic motifs.

 3.     Kanjeevaram Saaree

 

Kanjeevaram Saaree has been name after the small town in Bangalore i.e. Kanchipuram. These saaree are made with the utmost care by the craftsman living in that town. These type of saarees are mostly preferred by the South Indian Women. Although the silk Kanjeevaaram sarees are more popular, there are few varieties of cotton sarees as well. This sari comes is vibrant colors. Golden thread is used for weaving designs on this sari.

 4.     Khadi Cotton Saaree

 

On the whole, Khadi is a versatile and light fabric which makes it comfortable to wear and carry. It also lasts long and is used to make a large variety of items, one of which is obviously the saree. Khadi is generally woven using only cotton. You simply cannot survive summers without adding this to your wardrobe staple.

 5.     Chanderi Saaree

This saaree origin is from Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh. With the perfect blend of lustre, quality and outstanding prints, Chanderi cotton sarees have traditional coin prints, Flora art, Peacocks and geometrics are woven into different chanderi patterns. Chanderi Sarees are also famous for its silk sarees which are counted amongst the finest sarees India has ever made.

 6.     Dhakai Saaree

 

These saaree are from Dhaka, Bangladesh. It is worn especially in Bengal. There are the normal Dhakai sarees with plain thread work and then there are those with golden thread work unknown as the Zamdani Dhakai sarees.

 7.     Chikankari Saaree

Chikankari is all about embroidery, chikan means embroidery. It was initiated as a white on white embroidery work but with time it is now done in varied colours. This artfully done embroidery work is delicate and the pure definition of beauty and is exclusively available in Lucknow.

 8.     Gadwal Saaree

This type of saaree has its origin from Western Part of India. Gold and copper shades of zari work are used on Gadwal sarees.

 9.     Pochampally Saaree

 

These saaree are manufactured in Bhoodan Pochampally, Telangana. Also known as pochampally ikat, it has traditional geometric paterns in ikat style of dyeing. Pochampally saarees are made from fin cotton sometimes blended with silk as well. This 9 yards long saaree is perfect for any occasion.

 10.   Kota Doria Saaree

These saaree are made in Rajasthan from cotton and have square-like patterns known as khats. The khats or the square check pattern on the fabric of Kota saree is methodically woven in traditional pit loom in order to process the desired outcome. These delicate khats are the marks of a Kota Doria saree.

 References:

https://www.cotton.org/pubs/cottoncounts/story/index.cfm

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton

https://www.organiccotton.org/oc/Cotton-general/World-market/History-of-cotton.php#:~:text=The%20first%20evidence%20of%20cotton,originated%20in%20India%20and%20Africa.

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