Lucknow kadai- elegance and grace

LUCKNOW -CHIKAN (EMBROIDERY)


Chikan Embroidary or kadai also know as Lucknowi kadai is a traditional embroidery style from Lucknow, India. 


It is one of the most intricate creation that has flawless grace and elegance in any traditional Indian wear. Its technique is known as Chikankari which is all hand work done on a variety of textile fabric viz. muslin, silk, chiffon, organza, net, georgette, cotton, etc.

Its origin is believed to have come from 3rd Century BC Megasthenes, who mentioned the use of flowered muslins by Indians. But these embroidered patterns lack any colour, ornamentation or anything spectacular to embellish it. According to Laila Tyabji, chikankari stems from the white-on-white embroidery of Shiraz and came to India as part of culture of Persian nobles at the Mughal court. There is also a tale that mentions how a traveler taught chikan to a peasant in return of water to drink. The most popular origin story credits Noor Jahan, Mughal empress and wife of Jahangir, with introducing chikankari to India. He established several workshops to hone and perfect this art form. In this era, the fabrics used were mostly Muslin or Mulmul as they were best suited for the warm, humid climate.

After the downfall of the Empire, Chikankari artisans spread all over India and founded various centers for re-establishment in the 18th and 19th Century. Lucknow was the main one with Awadh as a close second. The then Governor of Awadh, Burhan Ul Malk, was a Persian nobleman and Chikan work beneficiary who had a major role in restoring this craft to its former glory, which in many ways stands till date.


Chikan began as a type of white-on-white (or whitework) embroidery.

The patterns and effects created depend on the stitches and the thicknesses of the threads used. Some of the stitches include backstitch, chain stitch and hemstitch. The result is an open work pattern, jali (lace) or shadow-work. Often the embroiderer creates mesh-like sections by using a needle to separate threads in the ground fabric, and then working around the spaces. It consists of 32 stitches.

One of the interesting fact is that actor Farooque Shaikh was so charmed by this fabric and style that he wore chikan all his life and came to be identified as a brand ambassador of sorts of Lakhnavi chikankari.


A woman always looks attractive and elegant in Traditional wear, especially when it is about the lucknow chikan work. Its style and work is one of the most artistic and royal style. Thus, undoubtedly, the sheer variety of Lucknow Chikan work today is more bountiful than ever before. It is greatly in demand by the general urban masses, upper classes and celebrities in Bollywood and Hollywood.

 

Reference:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_(embroidery)

 


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